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mandag 28. september 2009

Treasure Beach

Our last two nights in Drapers didn't turn out too nice, bad service made it the most expensive and worst place we've stayed for the past four weeks. It's an "our pick" in the Lonely Planet, but don't go to Drapers San. It should be easy to find both a cheaper and nicer place, as the area is crawling with guest houses.

Contacted a guest house in Treasure Beach which we found on the internet, turned out the owner was driving a guest on friday (the day we wanted to leave) to Manchoneal, just an hour from Drapers. Perfect for us! Even though the owner of our guest house told us there was a storm hitting Treasure Beach, so it could be dangerous, we decided to leave as planned. Happy we did! In a contrast to Drapers where it has been rain and thunder every day, we haven't seen a single drop of rain here. Or any storm. Portland (the county of Drapers) is the wettest and greenest on the island, while this is the driest and has more cactuses than mangrove trees. So don't go to Portland in the rainy season!

As for our guest house here, Nuestra Casa, it's just absolutely lovely. Big and airy, nice people and great service, spacious and clean rooms, DVDs and books, free wi-fi, the perfect roof top terrace to sun bath or watch the stars, and close to the sea and the beach Billys Bay, one of five making up the village of Treasure Beach.

The first day went buy just enjoying the place and the atmosphere. Yesterday we stayed the entire day at the YS falls, a beautiful and incredibly well maintained place. The valley has been owned by an irish family since the 1880's. Today they have 35 employees working with tourists (in the falls), and another 35 working on the farm where they breed cattle and race horses. We took a canopy tour, sliding down above the falls. Nice! Then jumped with a rope into the falls, and bathed in them before going down to an artificial pool they have made by the river. Just a fantastic day! And we were lucky with the weather, normally at this time of the year it rains daily. We had sun all day.

Today I will repeat the day before yesterday, just taking in the atmosphere here before we leave tomorrow for Negril. Which is more of a touristy place, naturally you might say, because of their Seven mile beach.


-- Posted from my iPod

fredag 25. september 2009

Port Antonio

Airport in Kingston, Jamaica on monday:
Woman: Do you have your return ticket?
Me: I'm leaving third of october.
W: Do you have the ticket?
M: I've been to Cuba and they have poor internet and no printers.
W: You didn't print it at home?
M: No.
W: Well, where are you going after Santo Domingo?
M: I don't know.
W: Don' know?
M: I will travel for a year and don't know where I'm going next.
W: Oh. So then you have a lot of money?
A nod from me, big smile from her and I was through. A Norwegian passport is a very good thing to have! And I didn't even have to lie and tell her that I had a ticket. I just never said I didn't..

Thanks to my better half in Norway, that helped us e-mail a couple of guest houses before we arrived (which was almost impossible in Cuba, as mentioned several times, and extremely expensive), we got picked up by a driver at the airport. So we got straight to our nice home at Drapers San, without having to go into Kingston. Quite nice, as Jamaica is the country in the world (not at war) with the most killings, most of them happening in Kingston.

As we are in the middle of the hurricane/rainy season, we've had a lot of bad weather here. Tuesday I mostly stayed in my room (for the first time since I left home I have MY room!) reading, except for a small snorkelling trip just down by where we live.

In the night a thunder storm hit us with all it's power, pretty similar to the one we had in Viñales. It lasted all evening and night. The light went out for about an hour (happy I had my head light!), our host told me that was normal here, happens once a week. Usually when they get in big drug shipments. If it was that or just the weather was impossible to tell.

Today we've had two wonderful dives with a very good diving centre (the opposite of Cuba), along a nice wall and some well preserved corals. Saw mainly just the ordinary fishes, but also a huge crab down at 20 metres. Wouldn't like to get close to those claws!

Now we're at a small mall, getting a pedicure. Needed after all our walking in the past three weeks. Not to mention all the blisters. Soon home for some dinner, they make wonderful food at our guest house. And then tomorrow we'll try, if the weather is ok, to take a boat trip up a river and to some beaches. Before we in the evening leave for Treasure Beach, as far away from here you can go on this island. Which means about five hours driving. I'm not sure of the distance, but that's five hours on horrible roads. So it's a really small island.


-- Posted from my iPod

mandag 21. september 2009

Cuba

Sitting at the airport, ready to leave this island. Arriving at the airport, the screen said Montego Bay instead of Kingston, that we thought we were going to. "Oh no, we have to stay here longer" was my first thought. Turned out it was just the screen that was wrong, the plane was actually going to Kingston. Still a bit nervous for the immigration control in Jamaica though, as I don't have a ticket for Santo Domingo, and you must have a return or onward ticket to be able to enter the country. I'm crossing my fingers and hoping it's enough to have a norwegian passport.

Then, back to what I really wanted to tell you about; Cuba. The people are quite similar to the Dominicans, except maybe a bit more relaxed (especially in clothing), the main difference is the government. Having seen the sold-out Dominican republic, it was nice to see another possible way. Even if things are far from perfect in Cuba, there is not a lot of poverty and the cubans own Cuba. Not the americans or the mexicans. They also have a very strong national pride, maybe difficult not to have in a country with so much propaganda everywhere. Even in the most remote areas you'll find quotes from Fidel and Che.

The propaganda is everywhere. Still people are very found of Fidel, he has a charisma that makes his people love him. His brother is a totally different person. Fidel is the charismatic leader of the people, talking without a written speach in his hand. While Raul is a man of the military, cold (he never smiles on TV) and he just reads his written speach. As for now he is the official president, but it seems as if he is just the puppet for Fidel which still unofficially rules the country. What happens when Fidel dies is difficult say. Even if the people doesn't love Raul in the same way that they love Fidel, he will be one of two leaders from the revolution still alive, and that alone will probably keep him in power. Cubans themselves believe things gradually will change, but gradually is the essencial word. No one believes in any quick changes.

As for travelling, Cuba is a nice place to visit. The bus you have to take between cities is a bit expensive. But the cheap accomodation and food balances that, it's very cheap to stay here! You have private houses (casas particulares) all over, where it's excellent to stay. Hotels are mostly a bad deal, partly because they are state owned with horrible service. And very over priced compared to the standard you are used to in other countries.

Of course, you have the music, rhum and cigars as expected. All over. As for beggars and hustlers, I think it was ok. At least I didn't get too annoyed. All in all, nice three weeks!

¡¡Viva la revolucion!!


-- Post From My iPhone

søndag 20. september 2009

Havana - once more

After twenty hours travelling, we got back to Havana on friday. Finally installed in a house (had some problems, so took a while) I went straight to bed. Slept almost until the afternoon, then I was so hungry that we had to get out for some food. Found an Italian restaurant, with quite nice food. It was good to taste chees that had actually been into an oven. Those little things you suddenly appreciate when travelling. Like the toilet at the hotel we went to afterwards to use the internet (one of two in Cuba with wi-fi), the first I've been to here with a toilet-seat, lockable door, water and soap. Luxury!

Grabbed a beer in the park nearby afterwards, where there was a small consert. And then a couple of drinks in a tiny bar with sports on the tv. Slept until eleven yesterday, before we went out to see a couple of the things we missed last time. Of course on a saturday the tobacco-factory was closed. But we got a tour inside El Capitolio, an impressive building which it took 5000 workers three years to build.

Today we went to Plaza de la Revolucion for a huge peace concert, "Concierto paz sin fronteras". It was crowded, on tv now they said it was 1,050,000 that had gathered on the plaza. It was insane with so many people in the middle of the day under the horrendously hot sun dancing and moving like one big organism. De verdad, ¡una locura!

Now we're back at the room under the fans, trying to achieve a normal body-temperature before going out for some dinner. And to use the internet once more, have to try and find a place to stay tomorrow in Jamaica. Well, that means our days in Cuba are ending.

¡Viva la revolucion!


-- Post From My iPhone

torsdag 17. september 2009

Baracoa

Arrived here on saturday, it's a five hour bus-trip from Santiago. Not too long, and a beautiful road past Guantanamo first and then up through the mountains (or hills that I'd rather call them), to this small city in the north-east. Five hundred years ago this was the first place Columbus arrived in Cuba, and therefore it also for a short while was the Cuban capital.

Today it's a bit rusty and could need a lot of paint. Among some other things. Still it has the charm and calm of a village, which is it with it's 12,000 inhabitants, and you very soon recognize people around town. The area is full of Cocoa and Coco-trees, and the people are quite proud of their chocolate. Of course there is both an ice-cream and chocolate-factory here.

The main thing attracting tourists to this remote place, is the nature surrounding it. We went to the fantastic Playa Maguana on monday, a wonderful day and the first this far without a ton of sweat. It was just us (me, Merete, Kirsten and Yuri), an entire pig-family and the people working there. Fresh giant shrimps from the river nearby for lunch, mojito with a taste of mint, and the entire day in the nice waves. It was just great!

The day after, on tuesday, we decided to get on top of El Yunque, a very special mountain that is the symbol of Baracoa. It's a ten kilometre walk to the top, that rises 560 metres above sea level. Sure, for Norwegians that doesn't sound too difficult, but in the heat here it was no easy task. So really proud that we managed to get to the top!

In the evening, after dinner and some sleep, we went out for a beer with Kirsten and Yuri, a dutch couple living in our house that we've met several times throughout Cuba. Just me and Merete also walked to the park on saturday, but then it was all quiet. I learned the day after it was because one of the leaders from the revolution, the third commandant, died on saturday. But this monday it didnt't turn out quite so quiet, we didn't return to our house until half past three. Drinking rhum, talking and dancing turned this into a very nice night.

I should have been exhausted when finally in bed, but couldn't sleep. So after breakfast I returned to bed and spent half the day sleeping. Actually nice with a day doing as little as possible.

Spent yesterday going to Yumuri, a small village thirty kilometres from Baracoa. Luckily there was a finnish couple sharing the taxi with us so didn't turn out too expensive. Regretted a little that we didn't rather just go back to Playa Maguana.

Spent the evening reading and relaxing at home. And eating way too much for supper, as usual in this house. But it was strange to be just me and Merete for supper, the past four nights we've been eating with Kirsten and Yuri, but they left that morning.

Casa de William has been very nice to stay in, and his wife (as well as himself), are excellent cooks. For example the first night we ate the most delicious lobster.

After five nights here we're on the bus now back to Santiago. Will get some supper there, before catching the night-bus at ten to Havana. Luckily my last way-too-long-busride-from-hell in a long time. Neither Jamaica nor the Dominican republic are big enough for that to be possible.


-- Post From My iPhone

Santiago de Cuba

Arrived tuesday morning at half past six. Got some breakfast and went straight to bed, slept until lunch-time. Our house, casa de Tati, or casa de Ana Romero which is her real name, is located just a few blocks from the main square, so we took a stroll through town for some food and something to drink.

The city seemed much more calm and safe than Havana, and it was easier to feel the citys soul. That together with our lovely hostess and house, not to forget Anas delicious food, has made these four days some of the best this far. It has been really nice to just lay in the hammock at our roof-top terrace reading and truly relaxing, with the smell and sounds of the city in the distance.

Sure, we've been to some of the bad museums as well. And the Castillo del Morro, a really nice and well preserved fort about ten kilometres from town. Sadly very hot, as usual, when we walked around there.

Wednesday we found a nail-salon, run by a woman and her daughter in front of their entrance (so it was just a table), where Merete got her first manicure and pedicure ever, to the womans big surprise. How is it possible not to do your nails once a week? It was incredibly cheap, even if they charged us twice the normal price, we payed only one USD each. I like it here!

As we have been here four nights, we've spent two of those trying to stay awake longer than until ten. Not an easy task. Two of the places recommended by the LP wad closed when we arrived. Casa de la Trova, with great live music, has been open, so we went there a couple of times. Nice place, even though I have some problems sitting among such a huge group of tourists (bussed in from some big hotels outside town), watching how they embarass themselves dancing with the gigolos. Yesterday after leaving there, we found the real party; in the park on the way home. They had big speakers with nice music (dominican bachata!) and the young cubans (as well as the city's originals) were gathering there. Nice!

I haven't mentioned it, but it might be obvious when all of the posts from Cuba arrive at the same time; the internet here is hopeless. There is no wi-fi anywhere, and the connection is pre-historical; they only have modems. It's been a long time since I've heard that "I'll call later when he's finished with the internet". Therefore we have had big problems buying tickets from Cuba on the web as we're used to. In the end we had to go to the airline's office to get tickets for Jamaica. And we have to get early to Havana, to buy tickets from Jamaica, so that we'll get a visa to enter the country. A nice thing to have. And no, we couldn't buy those tickets here in Santiago. They were not allowed to sell them here.


-- Post From My iPhone

On the road again!

This time really on the road. Started the day with a 4 hour taxi-ride to Pinar del Rio. That includes 1 hour waiting in a bank to get out money because of this hopeless woman that didn't know how to use the computer. After the long wait, our driver started stressing and driving like hell because he was afraid of an upset boss. I'm happy to still be in one piece!

Then we had about one hour waiting for the bus back to Havana. Luckily this time the air-condition on the bus works! We're hoping to catch the bus at 6 pm for Santiago. Which means about 16 hours more in a bus. So this will be a long day and night. But when we arrive tomorrow morning we will have crossed the country from the far west and almost to the far east.


-- Post From My iPhone

mandag 7. september 2009

Maria la Gorda

Or Maria la Bonita that it rather should be called out here. The whole area is a national park, with a very rich fauna both on land and in the sea.

We have stayed two nights at the only hotel here, and have had two dives. It was wonderful to dive in a wetsuit again! Both dives went well, but the last one was the best, with a nice wall and also it was much deeper.

The only action out here except for the diving has been a cat-fight next to our dinnertable (the place is crawling with cats), and a frog in our toilet. And also a whole bunch of annoying sand-flies. It has been nice to relax for a while, but I'm looking forward to get into a city again. It just isn't quite so nice to stay in a beautiful and romantic place, and eating dinner at the beach in the sunset, with Roger in Norway. So tomorrow we're heading back to Vinales where hopefully there will be a bus for Havana, so that we can catch the bus for Santiago in the evening.


-- Post From My iPhone

lørdag 5. september 2009

Viñales

Two nights spent in Viñales at the house of the sweetest woman, Geo, who makes the best chicken I've ever tasted. Viñales is a rural, relaxed and cosy village. It was a nice change from the hot and busy capital to be able to just sit outside on the terrace in the evening with neighbours passing by all the time. And not to forget; all the animals. For dinner we had a rooster, a dog, a kitten and her mother around our feet. And horses and ox-wagons passing in the street.

In the afternoon the day we arrived we had the worst lightning and thunder I've experienced. It lasted for a few hours and struck several places in the neighbourhood. Including next to our closest neighbour who got their phone and tv broken.

The second day we went horseback-riding for 4 hours, with Geos nephew. And I don't even like horses. I survived! And the trip was great. We got to see this beautiful valley, and a cave with a natural pool 250 meters inside the mountain. The closest I get to feeling religious is when seeing natural wonders like this. It was just magnificent.

Also we had this mandatory stop at a house where they dry tobacco. At this time of the year the house is filled with corn which they grow now before the tobacco season.



-- Post From My iPhone

torsdag 3. september 2009

La Habana

We've spent three nights in the Cuban capital, and even though I've been exhausted, have slept badly and it has been incredibly humid and hot, I love the atmosphere of this strange place.

Oh, and it has to be impossible to be a graphic designer here, there are hardly any signs or logos anywhere, except for propaganda that is. But I have to admit, it feels kind of refreshing to walk around without neon signs, posters and billboards everywhere. Even I get a chance to watch buildings and people, instead of fonts and colors.

Of course once here, we've been to the Museo de la revolucion and Ches house that's now a museum. It's strange to see how much of the revolution is still around. Even in stores you'll find a lot of Fidels quotes. The best has been just sitting in a cafe wathing people and sipping way too strong cuba libres.

Now we're leaving for Vinales, a small town in the west. Our wonderful host, Ramon, has helped us finding a place to stay there and the lady will meet us at the bus station when we arrive.

Hasta la victoria siempre!




-- Post From My iPhone

tirsdag 1. september 2009

On the road!

Or maybe in the air is more precise. Finally we're on the way to La Habana. But oh so tired. In Norway it's 18, in Cuba it's 12 o'clock. And I've already been awake for 14 hours, had to get up at 4 this morning (or night) to catch the flight from Oslo. This will be a long day! Still 8 hours left just in the air today.

We took a small trip into Frankfurt when waiting for the plane (for 6 hours), because Merete needed a pair of pants. The only thing we found was coffee. And of course, luckily; the way back to the airport.

Finally aboard the plane, with other tourists and a whole bunch of crazy cubans. An entire family was holding up the line in front of us when boarding, trying to convince the staff that they didn't have too much hand-luggage. That didn't help (and it seemed as if they carried everything they owned).

Anyway; we're closing in on the Caribbean. Just a good nights sleep, and we're ready to hit the road!


-- Post From My iPhone