Tanzania

As mentioned earlier this has been my first trip ever booked entirely with a company. And Makasa has turned out very nice, they are still pretty small but very service-minded and helpful, and they've made our vacation a great one. A friend who works as a guide recommended them, so my expectations were high. And I haven't been disappointed.

Sad thing is that I don't really feel like I can say anything about Tanzania, as I've only stayed on the tourist trail these two weeks. In Latin America I could speak to people, naturally here when I don't speak swahili it's a lot more difficult. Not to forget; I had a lot more time there.

The safari was much better than expected — we saw a lot more animals than I dared to hope for. And a lot closer, some came and scratched their back on the car. But travelling on bumpy roads with a baby on your bladder can be a bit tricky, especially when you have ten other safari cars around and 7 lions lurking among them.

Zanzibar was a nice end to the journey. I got a bit disappointed by the food at the hotel in Nungwi. When lunch is very expensive (by Tanzanian standards), and you are in an island famous for spices, I expect to find something more tasty on the menu than sandwiches, pasta bolognaise and pizza margarita. Some of the dinner was also very tasteless, only spiced up a little with normal black pepper. In their defense, a couple of nights the dinner was very good (as a tip; order the vegetarian option, it seemed to be the only spicy one). Hopefully they might change it one day, and try for tasty, local food rather than tasteless european.

As for timing, ours seemed to be perfect. At the end of may you get the big migration in Serengeti, with lots of wildlife — and you'll get low season rates. The rainy season has just finished, and europeans still haven't invaded the national parks. In may/june it's also low season with low season rates on Zanzibar, while the weather is pretty nice and not too warm. "Only" 30 very humid degrees.

All in all, highly recommended to take a trip to this part of Africa!

Tanzania day 11, 12, 13, 14 — Nungwi Beach

We've stayed four nights at the northern tip of Zanzibar at Mnarani Beach Cottages. It's the low season here as well, so the first days were very peaceful and nice. The last two days the hotel has been almost completely empty for guests, therefore they've used the opportunity to do some maintenance. And I don't find it very relaxing to listen to hammering and having workers wandering around while I'm laying in the hammock in my bikini. But that's me, Roger (as a carpenter) found it very relaxing, and were getting more and more ready to go back to work on monday.

I have to admit I'm quite spoiled when it comes to beaches, being used to the Caribbean. Frankly, the beaches here are not that good, and you are dependant on the tide to have a swim. But Mnarani still has been very nice, they have an ok pool and has done the most of their property with hammocks spread around. The perfect way to relax with a book in the breeze listening to the waves (until waves was switched with hammers).

Roger had a couple of dives, while I had to stay in the boat. No drinking and no smoking I can barely survive, but no diving has been the worst this far! Luckily we are soon half way, so maybe I can go back to a normal life as well soon (if 5 months are soon).

Tanzania day 9 & 10 — Stone Town, Zanzibar

Travelling with a carpenter results in pictures like this.

Narrow streets forming a complete chaos.
You'll really need a map here!

You'll find bananas in three different colours.

Plenty of fresh sea food.

The different religions in perfect harmony.

Soccer in the evening.

These girls were singing to us at the local madrasa.

We were supposed to reach Zanzibar at 14.20, and looked forward to be having an afternoon stroll in the city. That didn't quite go as planned. We were alerted when we arrived at the airport and our flight didn't show on the screen. At all. Turned out it had been moved from 13.10 to 16.45. When the clock finally was a quarter to five, nothing had happened. And the flight still didn't show up on the screens. Luckily, at 18.30 they finally boarded the plane. But we had to stop by Dar es Salaam, so we arrived Stone Town at 20.40, 6 hours later than scheduled. At that time it felt like heaven to check in at the cosy Zenji Guest House. As they say on their website: The aim of the projects of Zenji Zanzibar is to create (in)direct income for rural local community by stimulating local entrepreneurship, encouraging tourists to participate in local tours and providing training on the job and capacity building. Zenji Zanzibar works together with local organisations, NGO's, private companies, educational institutions and enthusiastic and motivated persons

Food and then sleep was the only thing that mattered then. But today we've gotten to see the narrow, winding streets of this charming town. Because of our limited time here we decided to take a guided tour through the history and streets of Stone Town.

About 5 % are christian, and there are a few indians as well. But most of the population are muslims, and the arabic influence is strong. Because of it's location Zanzibar was the perfect spot for traders to meet and do business. Especially slaves and spices became important goods. Today only the spices remain, giving the town some delightful flavours.

In the afternoon we had a "cultural night tour", which meant wandering through the town and some of it's more remote corners with a guide. It was pretty overpriced, but the tour itself was nice, taking us around those places where ordinary people go and live. Even though that meant for us to feel like two wandering tourist attractions. Especially among all the kids. The tour ended with dinner on the porch where the guide grew up, made my his mother. And a music session at the nearby madrasa by a group of teenagers. An interesting and very different evening.

Tanzania day 8 — Ngorongoro

Heading down into the crater.

We had this all to ourselves!

Bougainvilla Lodge where we stayed two nights was a pleasant surprise. Very friendly staff, good food, a big cottage and a pool to relax in after a dusty day in the car.

The Ngoronogoro crater is the result of a volcanic implosion about two million years ago (or one, depending on which expert you ask). Brown plains surrounded by a lush forest along the rim of the crater. We saw more lions, wilderbeests, flamingos, gazelles, jackals, hyenas and one lonely black rhino. Very distant, but now we have seen all the big five!

Tanzania day 5, 6 & 7 — Serengeti #2

The big migration.

Guys showing off – as usual.

Hunting by the river.

Watching the zebras.

Laying just by the road.

Here is why the lion is considered a king!

Taking a nap before dining.

No other animal can sleep like this on the ground.
He truly knows he has no real threats.

A cob hiding in a tree.

Portveien 2 på ordentlig!

A nice place to relax after a long day on safari.

We saw these when leaving Serengeti.

One of the last remaining big migrations on earth is the one here at this time, when the probably near 2 million wilderbeests move into Kenya for the dry season. An amazing view!

Now I understand why the male lion is called a king, we also got to see two lions mate. Just in the start of their 7-days of no eating, just mating. The poor thing got about a minutes break and then he had to go back to work. Bet he will be pretty exhausted in a week!

We encountered what our driver called a "kindergarden", a group of 11 giraffes. 2 adults taking care of the youngsters, and teaching them how to eat and avoid predators.

To sum up our days in Serengeti we have seen 2 cheetahs, 3 leopards (one just a baby girl), 10 lions and an endless amount of wilderbeests, zebras, giraffes, elephants, monkeys, gazelles, warthogs, hippos and different types of antilopes.

The food at Migunga was superb, so the food where we've stayed the past 3 nights has been a disappointment. Tasteless, too small portions and both of us and our driver have gotten sick. But even though the kitchen is not worth much here at Ikoma bush camp, the location is excellent. We are just outside the border of the national park, and in the last two days we've been surrounded by wilderbeests (and a few zebras). Sitting by the camp fire listening to the animals and watching the overwhelming amount of stars is a pretty good way to spend the evening here.

We got a very nice farewell from Serengeti, leaving the park we passed 7 lions walking by the road. A lucky young male accompanied by six lionesses.